FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

I have had quite a few people email me with questions of their own regarding their new Netherland Dwarf bunnies. I want to share the questions as they come to me in the hopes that they might help someone needing answers to some of these very frequently asked questions. If you have any suggestions for an additional question and answer for this section, please email me with your idea. I would love to post as much help and information as I can accumulate for the beginning dwarf breeder and/or pet owner. Thank you.

Should I purchase my new bunny from the local pet store or a local breeder?

I highly recommend that you seek out a few breeders in your area and take a look at their stock. They know their rabbits and can give you much more information about their bunnies than a pet store ever would. Most breeders are great about being available to answer any questions you might have about your new bunny once you take it home. You will be able to see the conditions in which it is being raised and ask questions of the breeder directly.

Can I keep two pet bunnies in the same cage?

Though I have heard of this being done successfully, from my own experience I definitely would not recommend doing this with two bunnies. Both bucks and does can become very territorial especially as they near their sexual maturity. Even if the bunnies are neutered, serious injury can result from trying to keep two rabbits together in the same cage.

What are some factors I should consider when deciding where to place my outdoor hutch?

Make sure when placing a hutch in your yard that you keep in mind the afternoon sun and how much exposure to this heat your bunny might get. Bunnies can take the cold a lot better than the hot weather and are very susceptible to heat stroke in the summer months. In regards to the winter months, make sure the placement doesn't allow direct exposure to the elements and that built within your hutch is an area that your bunny can retreat if the weather is especially harsh. Another important consideration should be possible predators. Do not place your bunny in an area where they will be readily exposed to predators such as dogs, cats, etc. If this becomes unavoidable, make sure the hutch is secure and your cage wire is protected from underneath so that an under  the cage attack is avoided.

What size cage is right for my dwarf bunny?

One general rule cases that you should allow 1 square foot of space for each pound of bunny.

How much food should I feed my dwarf rabbit?

Juniors (meaning a bunny under 6 months and under 2lbs.) and lactating does should be allowed as much pellets as they require. All others should get about 2oz. of pellet food and a generous amount of Timothy Hay daily. Personally, I feed 1oz. in the am with hay and 1oz. in the pm with hay. I prefer to feed twice a day to provide more interaction with my bunnies and I am able to take better note of everyone's condition throughout the day.

At what age is it safe to breed my dwarf bunny?

Dwarf bunnies should be fully mature before breeding is permitted. Kits should be separated no later than 10 weeks of age to avoid keeping rabbits together that are approaching the age of possible sexual activity while still being physically too immature to breed. Six months is the right age to begin any breeding program for your bunny.

When breeding, why do I have to bring the doe to the buck's cage? Is this really necessary?

Yes. It is definitely necessary. If the buck were introduced to the doe in her own cage, she potentially could become very territorial and serious injury could result to both bunnies. Further, the buck could become so distracted by the new surroundings that he would not be completely focused on the task at hand.

How will I know if breeding has been successful?

Though this can be somewhat uncomfortable for a new breeder, you should always watch your bunnies when you introduce a doe to a buck to insure that breeding was successful. Generally the buck will make some kind of grunting noise and literally fall off the back of the doe and onto his side. You should leave the doe in the cage until this has occurred a couple of times. Then, you may return the doe to the cage again anywhere from 3-12 hours later because this is thought to increase litter size and at the very least help insure a successful breeding.

What is the typical size litter of a netherland dwarf?

Netherland dwarf rabbits typically have in the neighborhood of 2-3 kits per litter. They are small rabbits and generally have small litters.

I never see my doe feeding her kits. Why?

Most bunnies feed their kits only once a day for just a few minutes. This is usually accomplished in the early morning hours when you are likely still asleep. If you check the kits each morning and their bellies look round and full than the doe did her job when you weren't looking!

When can I tell my doe is ready to be bred?

She may mark in her cage such as her feeder and water bottle by rubbing her chin on them. The best way to check is to pick the doe up, turn her on her back and check the color of her genitals. If they are reddish or purple, she is likely ready to be bred.

When showing my bunny, what is the difference between an elimination and a disqualification?

An elimination is a temporary condition that keeps the bunny from showing that day such as ear mites or a broken tooth. A disqualification is a permanent condition such as malocclusion (poor bite) or ears that are over 2 1/2 inches in length.

Does my bunny need to have a pedigree to compete in a show?

No. A pedigree only becomes necessary if you decide to register your bunny or want to apply for a Grand Champion certificate. You should, however, attempt to obtain stock that has full pedigrees. Pedigrees provide a lot of valuable information and can be very beneficial especially if you are going to attempt a breeding program with your bunnies.

At what age can I tell if my bunny has teeth problems (malocclusion)?

This can be seen in the first days of a baby bunny's life and kits should be checked as soon as possible to see if this is a problem.

My bunny's urine is orange. Should I be worried?

A bunny may occasionally have orange urine which can be alarming if mistaken for blood in the urine. Occasional orange urine can be caused by a couple different factors which are not a cause for immediate concern such as stress or the elimination of excess calcium from the bunny's body. If there is visible blood in the urine, this should be a definite cause for alarm and followed up with immediately. As with any physical condition if it persists and you are concerned, consult your local vet.

I have heard that rabbits eat their feces. Is this true?

Yes. Bunnies redigest their "night droppings" or cecotropes which give them needed vitamins. These droppings appear different than the normal droppings in color and shape which is often in a darker cluster form. This is a perfectly normal and necessary part of your bunny's diet though it may sound a bit odd to us:>)

I have two dwarf rabbits and I'm not sure if these colors of dwarf go together for breeding. Does it really matter what two colors I breed together?

Yes. It is a good idea to breed two colors that are genetically compatible to help the chances that you will have dwarf rabbits that are show quality colors. Your breeding program should focus on achieving kits that fit the standards of the show quality dwarf rabbits.

How will my Netherland Dwarf rabbit respond to the different temperatures throughout the year. Should I worry about heat or cold temperatures?

The heat of summer is really the biggest concern to the health of your netherland dwarf rabbit. Rabbits use their ears as their source for keeping cool in the summer. The blood vessels that run close to the surface of the ears are allowed to cool and transfer this throughout the body. With our little dwarfs, their ears are fairly small and heat can pose quite a challenge. Make sure that your rabbits are kept cool in your hutch or rabbitry. We put frozen water bottles in each cage as the temperatures start to reach 75 and higher in the hutch. Some rabbitries have misting systems to cool the air or fans which may also help lower the temperatures.  The main goal is to use whatever means you have available to keep the rabbits as comfortable as possible. Herd bucks are known to become temporarily sterile in temperatures above 80 degrees. Heat stroke in temperatures of 80 degrees and higher can occur, especially in pregnant or lactating does. Bottom line is, Keep those bunnies cool!!

As far as cold winter temperatures, most rabbits can take very cool temperatures quite comfortably. I have placed hay in all the cages when temperatures reached the teens and even the bucks made little hay houses to keep warm. They all looked very warm and content in even the coldest temperatures.